Zilla 11517 Humidity and Temperature Dial Gauge

None of them worked. This was disappointing. They weren't even worth sending back. Nothing registered on them at all. We had to find a digital one.

The temperature and humidity are not accurate. Unfortunately that is its sole purpose and it is of cheap construction. Do not waste your money.

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The product works VERY good. I have been using it for over a month now, and it works flawlessly. The attachment has two options. The product is easy to attach and use. It is highly recommended. The price is just right.

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Tetra Pond Algae Control

I tried this product to control green scum in the fountain in my back yard. I followed all instructions carefully, but after several applications it appears to have made no dent in the growth of the algae.

My fountain is the back yard at my home in the Phoenix metro area, so daytime temperatures are very high and nighttime temps fall only into the 80s. It might work in less extreme conditions, but it certainly is not doing the job for me.

The only product that has made my pond clear! My pond went from opaque (green) to clear overnight after the first use!

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I have used this twice now. Both times it seems to work great right away, but doesn't seem to last as long as I had hoped. Maybe it is just because my pond is in full sun and does not have enough other plants to use up the fish nitrogen. Still a great product for the price.

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It appears to be working as stated. We are glad to have this product to help keep the algae down.

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The results were not as it is mentioned. Did not work as expected. Cleared only half way after one week

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Rectangle coffee table aquarium, completely fish ready with hidden filter and LED lights

I needed an aquarium with a small footprint and good capacity. This product was a good choice. It was shipped promptly and safely. The reason this is not a 5 star review...a lack of instructions for the filter system.

Hagen Nutrafin Nitrate 0.0 to 110.0 Mg/L for Fresh and Saltwater, 80-Tests

I have used this test kit several times to monitor Nitrate in aquariums. It is the one kit that has been thoroughly consistent and accurate. You must use good light though when reading the results and follow the directions to the letter, that is important. I have found that viewing the test bottle against the card in direct sunlight helps to match the result to the closest PPM on the card. It can be a little confusing as the other reviewer claimed, but you are aiming for low readings to begin with and this brand is more accurate than the other cheaper one for Nitrate. And at this price compared to getting it at a chain pet store or LFS it is a great deal!

Long story short...

The color from the test tube can not accurately be placed at any one point on the color chart that is provided. Using a computer to analyze the colors, the hue of my test tube is the same as the hue of the 20 mg/L color on the chart, but the saturation is the closest to the saturation of the 50 mg/L color on the chart, and the "value" is actually below the entire chart (it would correspond to 0.89 mg/L). I don't believe there is any way a human or computer can tell where, on the provided chart, the color of the test tube should fall. No matter how I tried to evaluate the colors (naked eye, computer-evaluated red/green/blue or hue/saturation/value), I was not able to come up with a value for my nitrate level. To me this kit was a complete waste of money, although I did have fun trying (unsuccessfully) to find a way to use their inadequate chart to figure out the nitrate level.

Long story long...

I test color vision every day and I have great color vision. I also got the opinion of other people and everyone agreed that the color of the test tube, before and after a 50% water change (to make sure I wasn't just off the chart), could not be placed anywhere in the provided chart. I read and re-read the instructions and followed it as best I could, although holding the last (of 3) bottles at a "45 degree angle" causes drops to fall out at a very fast rate and sometimes it is hard to allow only three drops into the test tube (this is not a plastic squeeze bottle, but a glass bottle that you must tilt "at 45 degrees" to allow the solution to drip out after shaking for 30 seconds). Personally, I think holding it at 30 or 20 degrees is much easier, but I'm not sure if that changes the size of the drops or not, so I just do what the directions say and throw everything out if more than 3 drops get into the test tube.

Before I did a water change, the vivid violet color of the test tube was much different than any of the desaturated colors on the card, which ranged from light pink to dark purple/maroon. I did a 50% water change, thinking that maybe I was just off the chart, and the color of the test tube became more pale, but still did not match anything on the chart. I asked other people and they also had no idea where on the chart my test tube was. There is a limit on what the human eye can do in terms of color and I thought I would take human judgement out of the equation.

I got the best lighting I could difficult because this cylindrical test tube focuses light into a bright vertical beam behind it leaving dark areas near the edges and a much brighter color near the center of the tube when you hold it in front of the white area on the chart. Finally, I got it situated so the color was mostly uniform when looking through the test tube. I then took a digital photo of the test tube held against the white area on the color chart and analyzed it on my computer. There are many ways to represent colors. I used HSV (hue, saturation, value) because the colors on the chart appeared desaturated compared to my more vibrant test tube and I was hoping I could remove that from the equation (also RGB did not provide values that consistently increased or decreased going up or down the chart, where HSV did). I used OpenOffice spreadsheet to create regression equations to correlate each parameter (hue, saturation and value) with nitrate concentration based on the colors provided on the chart. The absolute values of the coefficients of determination were 0.987, 0.913 and 0.996. For those who don't know, if the coefficient of determination (R2) is close to 1, then your equation is very accurate and if it is close to 0 then it is not accurate at all. This means that, in the chart provided with this kit, the hue, saturation and value all change predictably when nitrate concentration changes and you can come up with mathematical formulas that you can plug the values from either H, S or V into and it will give you the nitrate concentration. So, if I record the hue reading from one of the colors on the chart and plug that into the hue formula, it will give me the nitrate concentration that is listed next to that color. This is also the case for saturation and "value." No matter which of the three I use, I always get very close to the numbers listed on the chart. For example, if I analyze the color that is supposed to indicate 20 mg/L on the chart, plugging the hue into the hue equation gives me 18.3 mg/L, saturation gives me 17 and value gives me 20.7 (all pretty close to the correct nitrate concentration of 20).

Now, if the colors on this chart actually correlated with the possible colors in the test tube, you should also be able to take the hue, saturation or value from the color of the test tube and with the same formulas, come up with the nitrate concentration in the test tube. All three values should give you roughly the same nitrate concentration. So I analyzed the color from my test tube. Using the "value" of my test tube, my nitrates would be 0.89 mg/L. If I use the Hue, my nitrates are estimated at 21.2 mg/L (much higher) and if I use "saturation," my nitrates are 45 mg/L (more than twice what I got from "Hue" and 50 times as high as what I got from "value"). So, using the formulas I derived from the provided chart, the color of my test tube indicates that my nitrates are 1, 20 and 45 depending on what component of the color I use. These numbers are completely different from one another and show that the color of my test tube really wasn't anywhere in the spectrum of colors provided on the chart.

No wonder I couldn't look at the color and see where it fit on the chart. The hue of my test tube was the same as the hue on the chart that indicates 20 mg/L, the saturation of my test tube was closest to the saturation on the chart that indicates 50 mg/L and the value of my test tube was actually off the chart low (lower than the value of the 5 mg/L color on the chart). I'm not sure if I just got a bad test kit or if this will be the same for all the kits, but I think I have shown that there is no way to use the color of the test tube and the colors on the provided chart to come up with a nitrate level. I recommend looking for another nitrate test kit.

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Laguna Pressure-Flo Replacement Foam Kit for Pressure-Flo 1400 UVC Filter - 4-Pack

Great Filters!! I replace them about once every 3 months. There was no problem with these filters in the past, the water is clear.

I've tried power washing these filters but have since opted to replace them as needed. The water in my 300 gallon tank is clear and fresh for 3-4 months.

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These filters should be replaced at the start of every season in your laguna filter. They are direct replacements. require no special care and make your pond crystal clear again.

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helps to keep my pond clean, have been using this same brand for over 6 years in same pond try it

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Como Pink Flower Green Grass Plastic Decor for Fish Aquarium

This item came within te time they said it was and it lOok the same way as it did in the picture on line .. I got a 5$ gift card with the item, I couldn't be happy with this buy.!!!

Silent Air® X Series Aquarium Air Pumps, 2-Outlet, UL Listed

I use this air pump on a 112 gallon tank with Koi and Plecos, it provides enough air for a 5" air disc and a 12" long air-stone and after running for many months non-stop it's still pumping out a great amount of air, I was just expecting it to pump a little more than it does. However, that isn't stopping me from purchasing a second one for one of my other aquariums that has a noisy air pump, and a second for my large aquarium. I would definitely recommend these pumps, you'll barely know it's there. They do work best when placed above water level though so keep that in mind.

UPDATE 08-11-10

I bought two of these pumps and they have been running non-stop for over 2 years without fail. I would buy more of these in a heartbeat.

It works but it isn't silent. The sound it makes is a vibration rumble. It is the quietest air pump I've encountered. If the noise still bothers you run the air hose from a closet. If it still bothers you get some aquarium plants. I've never had a problem with them making too much noise.

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I have had this pump running for about a year and find myself quite satisfied. The pump pumps air through an almost 48inch bubble wall hose and the other hook up currently just off gases as we don't need it at this time. Over all the pump is fairly quiet as long as it is balance properly. If the pump becomes unbalanced or leans against something it becomes quite loud as it vibrates quite a bit.

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I have had this air pump for 6 months and it has been rock solid.

I keep this air pump inside a cabinet, so any noise is minimal. For the price, I found it to be more powerful and quiet than the air pumps I have purchased at my local stores (Tetra Whisper and Rena Air).

Even though it is rated for "aquariums up to 75 gallons," this pump outperformed a Tetra Whisper Air Pump rated for up to 100 gallons (and the Tetra broke after less than a year).

The 6 Watt power supply for this air pump is what you should use to compare it to other brands. The Rena Air 300 only comes with a 4 Watt power supply, even though both it and the Silent-Air® X5 are "rated" for tanks up to 75 gallons. The Tetra Whisper Air Pump for up to 100 gallon tanks only has a 4.8 Watt power supply.

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ALTHOUGH I AM JUST A SMIGGIN DISAPPOINTED OVER THE SOUND, OVERALL IT IS A GREAT AIR PUMP. IT STATES IN THE ABOUT SECTION THAT IT IS QUIET, BUT ITS NOT AS QUIET AS IT COULD BE. THE PREVIOUS AIR PUMP I HAD WAS QUIETER. MY TANK IS IN THE FAMILY ROOM WHERE WE HAVE THE TV LOCATED, AND SOMETIMES THE PUMP OVER RUNS THE TV DEPENDING ON VOLUME, BUT OVER ALL IT ISNT SO ANNOYING WHERE I HAVE HAD TO BUY A NEW ONE. I HAVE NOTICED THOUGH THAT THIS PUMP COMPARED TO MY LAST ONE REALLY ADDS MORE AIR VOLUMN INTO THE TANK (MEANING MORE BUBBLES)

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Odyssea 24" T5 HO Quad Aquarium Light Fluorescent Hood Fixture w/4 LED - Plant 4x24W

It doesn't measure 24" with the stand/legs factored in, it's more around 26".

The fixture itself is 24", but with the leg-stands, on a 24" wide tank (measuring from lid lip to lid lip, so, a 20 gallon tank), it will NOT stand on the edge of the tank with the legs included, even if they're pushed all the way in, and will need to be hung or modified (we added small wood boards to the legs to give it more of a 'platform' so it would sit properly) if you don't want it directly on the glass.

The light itself is sleek and bright, as one would expect from T5 lighting.

It comes with two ballasts, each one requiring an outlet spot obviously, so keep that in mind in terms of how many outlets you have free near your tank.

Good lighting. i haven't noticed eny excessive heat comeing from it. don't like that it comes with two power cords. thus needing extra plug ins.they r hard to hide considering. the size of the power packs r quite large. Ill be on the look out for something a little less space consuming . also we used it on our 20 gall wich the light did not fit. so u have it riged up to fit

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Fluval Polyresin Aquarium Ornament - Rock Outcrop

I recently added one of these Fluval rock outcrop ornaments to a Mr. Aqua 7.5 gallon rimless cube aquarium, that I am using as a ghost shrimp tank. I planted some Java Fern around this ornament for realism and it looks very nice.

My ghost shrimp like to climb up on it and use the ornament for a vantage point in the aquarium.

I recommend it for anyone looking for a realistic outcrop formation.

love the looks of this rock, very solid and made well. Soaked in water before using it in tank. no problems with it or fish once it was in my tank. I bought two of these and one larger one so I could make different looks to the tank by flipping it around and grouping it differently.

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This piece of wood is smaller than you might realize by looking at the picture, however it is a nice looking piece of drift wood. My husband bought it for our children's little 10 gallon tank and it would be the right size. Unfortunately, this wood has yet to make into our tank. After we received it in the mail it was sitting on the counter prior to being put in the fish tank. I noticed it had a sticker on the wood so I read what it said as I removed it. The sticker stated that this wood was the ideal addition to home aquariums however due to some of the unique properties of the wood it would need to be soaked for "a few days" to allow the color to leach out. It stated that if you do not do this your fish tank water might be discolored. I was relieved that I read the sticker prior to my husband tossing it into the tank. I pulled out a large salad bowl, filled it with water and dropped the wood in. I was shocked the next morning to find the wood caused the water to turn the color of tea. I thought that was probably all the color that was going to leach out but just in case I emptied the bowl out and filled it with fresh water. After a week of changing the water every day I was beginning to think that the unique properties of this wood were such that it would cause my fish to be obscured. After a month the wood is still leaching color, at this point it is no longer a dark tea color however it is still turning the water a color I do not wish for my fish tank to be.

Beware when purchasing this product. If you have a lot of time and do not mind the wait this wood looks very nice. For those of you who have children or husbands who want instant gratification this product is not for you.

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Natural Nitrate Reducer Salt Water Conditioner

This product is a liquid suspension of grain sized polycaprolactone. It works in a similar manner as bio-pellets, in that it provides a carbon based food source that aerobic bacteria can utilize to digest nitrate. The instructions on the bottle are vague as to dosing. It states to add 10 ML (one full cap) per 10 gallons weekly to reduce nitrates, or twice that for high levels of nitrate. The vague part is that they don't define what constitutes "high" levels of nitrate. My purely biased interpretation is that would be anything over 10 ppm for reef tanks and anything over 20 ppm for FOWLR or fish only tanks. The instructions further state that you need to maintain the dosing level until nitrates are reduced to undetectable levels, and then the dose may be cut in half each week (5 ml per 10 gallons) for a maintenance dose. What they don't clarify is that it can take considerable time for biological bacteria to consume the new food source and bring the levels down (and a few other factors that can help boost the effectiveness).

Before using this product, I read a bunch of reviews on reef central about it, including it's chemical makeup, biological action and success/failure in dozens of people's reef tanks. The group consensus is that the product appears to work in reef tanks with a moderate to light bio-load. In my own tank, it is being used in conjunction with a deep sand bed, strong skimmer, chaeto & miracle mud refugia. The overkill of using the IO NNR is due to the fact that my family love fish, so it's a little fish heavy for a 40 gallon breeder reef tank. My nitrate levels are consistently below 5 ppm since starting using the product and considering the space constraints and expense of setting up a bio-pellet reactor, this was the best solution for our situation. Vodka dosing can be tricky to find the right level and bacterial blooms can be a major headache for a skimmer, so going with a grain sized solid carbon source helps in that it's almost impossible to overdose the tank. The bacteria will consume the solid carbon food source at a more consistent rate vs. liquid dosing.

Now, this product doesn't always work for everyone. IMHO, anyone with a very high nitrate level due to a high bio-load might consider two things: Their cleaning/water change routine and reducing the bio-load (i.e., fewer fish, lighter feedings, etc.). Increasing your skimmer +1 over what you'd think you'd need for your tank is also an advantage. Using more nutrient exporters such as deep sand beds, refugia/miracle mud or harvesting macroalgaes like chaeto and caulerpa from your tank can also help suck out nitrates. Combine these nitrate controls with adequate weekly water changes and you should begin get your nitrates in check.

It's not a cure all or replacement for water changes, but it does help. I have a old tank that has been difficult to control nitrate levels. This brought it down to 40-60ppm. Still high, but much better than before. It's worth a try.

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Ok, here's the truth. I read most of these reviews and I usually don't understand a word they say! I have a 75 gallon tank that I took over from my husband when he no longer had time to care for it. I hate doing water changes, and if I do a 20% water change once a month, that's pretty major for me! I love the fish, and I have a super social tank! I have a tang, two cardinals, a coral beauty, a lawnmower blenny, a cinnamon clown, a royal gamma, the type of blenny that looks like an eel, a fox face, a yellow watchman, a recently widowed wrasse, a tiny little blenny with a spot on its tail, and a super tiny little yellow "fish" ... I love feeding them and they love to be fed and so I deal with nitrates more than I would if I didn't feed them so often. What I do, is I use a large toadstool leather coral as my judge for when my nitrates are too high. When he closes up, I know I need to treat the tank and I dose it with this stuff, and sometimes I dose it with Prime also. After a while the leather opens back up and that's that. When I can take a water sample in to the LFS, they generally tell me that my water is fine or that my nitrates are a little high and I need to feed the fish less. So ... I think this stuff works! I don't use it on a regular basis, but after reading the other reviewers I think maybe I should start using it weekly. Hope this helps!

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nothing at all will lower nitrates better than water changes and good biological filtration. That being said, I am not sure if this product masks the nitrate or it helps but I maintain my tank very well through biological filtration and 10-20% weekly water changes. I add half the reco dosage once each week to aid in nitrate reduction. Since my API reef kit shows zero I suppose it helps. My tank has zero mechanical filtration outside an oversized skimmer. I use liverock in tank and in refugium. I also use macro algae, deep sand bed and bugs in the refugium. I have been using this for 6 month as part of my weekly routine, would I reco it. Yes, because if its not broke dont fix it. If you have a nitrate problem, try water changes and more bio filtration first. If you get nitrate under control this way, you dont need this product. If you have a heavily stocked tank like I do it might help you with 10% water changes instead of say 20%.

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The best product for saltwater fish tank it will lower your nitrate level i give it a 5-5 because it work better than other products i try.

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Fish & Aquatic Supplies Brine Shrimp Shrimpery

We read the brief instructions, followed them, and had a nice collection of brine shrimp hatch just over 24 hours later. The setup with the collection bottle on top works, making it easy to collect the shrimp. All it requires is tap water. We used a lamp to heat up the whole box, a small table lamp with a CFL.

I have this product and it works just fine. It is not designed for large quantity hatching, but it is not a problem for me. I hope the other users who had problem with it actually read the instruction and followed it exactly. Otherwise, it will not work!

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I have used this for years. Sure, you will not be able to to raise seahorses with it but to feed fry with it is fine. you need a small air pump and stone for best results. to collect but a flash on top of the collection jar.

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I successfully hatched baby brine shrimp on the first try. I need live food to feed my ADF tadpoles and I got more then enough to keep them happy. It comes with three packets of hatch mix and I will order more from the company when I run out. Very pleased with the product.

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This works great for getting the baby brine shrimp to feed my little fishie. The only problem I have ( I think it's user error) is the bottle you put on top to catch the brine shrimp tends to not empty of the bubbles very well when I turn it up. But I notice it's worse the more room there is in the bottle. So fill it slowly and all the way to the top and cap it. That seems to reduce the bubbles. I'm just in too much of a hurry to do it properly most times. I did have to trim the tab on the cap of the clear bottle, but that really wasn't a big deal at all. I bought extra eggs to go with it and have been using it without any issues.

Ultralife Reef Products, Red Slime Stain Remover, .71 Ounce

I had my nano cube up and running for about 6 weeks before I got hit with a red slime outbreak. Still not sure exactly what caused it as my water flow/quality was good and I wasn't overfeeding because all I had were some cleaner snails and hermit crabs in there, but regardless, when the outbreak hit i went to my local fish store to search for a cure. It's only been 12 hours since I applied the dose but almost all of the red slime has been killed so far. The guy at my fish store said it would take 24-48 hours to completely do the job. But, this same sized vial cost $17.99 at my local fish store, so I would highly recommend purchasing it at Amazon at this low price if you can.

I was skeptical about ordering this product. I've used the competitor's chemical with little success. The redslime algae would return with a vengeance! I was constantly fighting it. I read the reviews about RedSlime Remover and decided to give it a try! After the first treatment I could see good results, but was able to retreat after 48 hours. I did a second treatment and much to my surprise the red slime has vanished!!! AND no water changes necessary!!! Kept my carbon in the filter and the protein skimmer going! I highly recommend this product!!!

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I have been trying to manage red cyanobacteria in my 26 gal reef tank for months with no success. Even after a thorough cleaning and water change, I would have red slime on my live sand and live rock again within 24 hours. After adding this product the first time, I saw no immediate results. I cleaned the algae and added a second dose 48 hours later (per the instructions), and have not had any red slime since. My protein skimmer is on a timer and runs at night (due to the noise it makes in the living area of our home), but I never had to turn it off. There has been no negative impact to my water quality or the health of my fish. I am extremely pleased with this product.

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I wanted Red Slime remover, and was misled by box as this is Red Slime stain remover? Don't know if there's a difference as it seems to have worked regardless.

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if you have red slime and can seem to get rid of it, This is the Holy Grail. 3 days and my red slime problems were gone. although it took 2 weeks for my protien skimmer to go back to normal.

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